THE SHAPE OF CAPE WATERS
A PENINSULA TOUR
August 10, 2022
By Pendra Dissell
In one drop of water are found all the secrets of the oceans; in one aspect of you are found all the aspects of existence
Kahlil Gibran, Poet
The landscape of the Cape is undoubtedly dramatic. Like the first arrival in New York when your emotions suspend over the Robert F Kennedy bridge and high-rise buildings bombard your senses, witnessing the expansive beauty of Cape Town is intoxicating. I would go out on a limb and say that as far as magnificent destinations go, and no matter the season, the Mother City hits the bullseye every time.
Is it those peninsula curves that confidently sweep past oceans of sparkling water? Or the explosive sound of tempestuous tides flashing across the stormy bay on a winter day? Or how unforgettable it feels to stand on the tip of a giant granite boulder and watch the Llandudno sunset serenade the good life on offer here.
What is for sure is that as a summer day slips beyond our reach into the embrace of its moonlit night, there is a pressing urge to place everything else on pause and slow dance under the star-studded sky.
The Resonance of Good Living
There are many ways to step into the Cape’s inviting embrace, and every option is so romantic.
The mode of transport on this virtual tour is up to you. Convertible, perhaps, with the wind blowing in your hair? Tandem biker-style for easy stop-offs; a crowd-friendly private tour including a waterside gourmet picnic; or for prime viewing pleasure, take the topless sunny side up red bus.
The curvy roads of the Cape Peninsula invite you to twist and turn to the resonance of good living. Oh, the beaches, drenched dogs joyfully kicking up sand, a school of dolphins, the electric sight of helicopters climbing the sky, a surfer riding white-tipped waves, a skateboarder kickflipping on the promenade, a rumbling pack of Harley Davidsons en route to Sunday brunch. These are some heady sights to expect.
Stop off at a sidewalk cafe and enjoy the aromatic taste of fresh seafood combined with the nutty flavour of a crisp Cape Chardonnay. Just add companions!
Kayak and kitesurf the big blue. Paraglide in technicolour off the dizzy heights of Signal Hill. Scout the friendly outdoor markets for hand-made produce which expresses abundant local creativity, wrap up in warm coats for a moody winter walk up the slopes of Table Mountain or order fireside tea and cake in a world-class hotel.
This rich lifestyle is the tune the Cape dances to. Falling in love with its rhythmical sway takes you entirely by surprise.
Blue Flag Beaches
The most beautiful journey in the world starts under the shadow of the majestic Table Mountain or is perhaps at first experienced from a spectacular cable car sighting at an elevation of 1000 meters above sea level.
At ground level, we could begin our tour in Bantry Bay, curving through to Clifton’s crisp and immaculate coastal enclave, where the gold standard 4th beach is blue flagged by the internationally recognised Foundation for Environmental Education. Thankfully the fragile marine life is preserved. A tip here, is that Clifton’s 2nd and 3rd beaches are cosy windless sanctuaries on windy days. So pack your umbrellas and beach towels and settle down on the sand with snacks and a racy read.
Architectural triumphs loom over your left as you navigate the tight curves typical of Clifton. After holding your breath, it’s a relief to spot the signature palm trees of Camps Bay waving you into the musical arms of this noisy social strip.
Here, upper and lower sidewalk restaurants beckon, and lively music floats out across the waves on summer days. Creamy gelato combined with playtime on the shoreline (for adults, too) is an irresistible activity.
Romancing the Tides
Typically, Capetonians are wildly passionate about this place they call home, protective and expressive too. Of course, the winds, tides, walks, and wines prompt many conversations, but these natural realities and social niceties are intrinsic to the culture.
As we head to Llandudno, with the Twelve Apostle mountain range hugging the road, we receive a further glimpse of why the locals love their city. As world-class surfers brave icy waters, more granite boulders loom large over the rough seas. In great acts of sweeping courage, texture and victory collide.
Villages & Vineyards
Next stop: Hout Bay. Its friendly villagey feel with tree-lined avenues and equine paddocks is inviting, and harbourside fish and chips are a real treat. Nearby the affluent Constantia green belt and its vineyards tuck into a valley that is oh so lovely. But we aren’t travelling that way today.
The steep Constantia Nek and Orangekloof forests that ridge along Hout Bay are worth mentioning. Adventure walks are popular here, and mushroom foraging makes for delicious braai side accompaniments.
The fragrance of pine needles that infuse underfoot is an outdoor expression that lingers long after you return home to light the fire.
Heavenly Ocean Views
The 9km long Chapman’s Peak Drive, known to locals as ‘Chappies,’ must be noted as the piece de resistance. This courageous road carved into a soaring mountainscape overlooking a sapphire blue sea has 114 curves.
On one side, you have an astonishing view of the Atlantic Ocean, and on the other, the handsomely rugged Western Mountains. In addition, the five-star Tintswalo Atlantic, a lodge perched above a pebble beach, offers more panoramic views in this locale. So stop here for a viewing vantage point and enjoy a tipple too. Or, better still, book in and soak up a weekend of Hout Bay beauty.
Once off Chappies, you will ease into the open stretches of Noordhoek, which is a laid-back farm-style suburb. Of great acclaim here is the 8km Long Beach that provides a walk-through route to the neighbouring suburb of Kommetjie. The sight of horse riders stirring up the sand is beautiful, and we recommend you join in. Or, book at the celebrated chef Frank Dangereux’s Foodbarn Restaurant and Deli. It receives noteworthy reviews.
Sailing, Surfing & Sidewalk Shopping
Now you’re on a trail heading for the heritage site Cape Point in the Table Mountain National Park. It was named the ‘Cape of Storms’ by Bartolomeu Dias in 1488 because it was considered a hugely scary sailing experience. Around this part of the Cape, you’ll experience Kommetjie, a cute little seaside haven with a small community of surfers, anglers and divers.
There’s a lovely boardwalk that cuts through the fynbos here. Then, there’s South Africa’s Naval Base Simon’s Town, the penguin colony beach Boulders, the surfers Indian Ocean paradise of Muizenberg and antique heaven in Kalk Bay where the sidewalk shops burst with unique finds. All quaint places with memorable personalities.
Contrary to popular belief, whilst some refer to Cape Point as ‘the place where two oceans meet,’ and there is speculation around the apparent line that divides the Atlantic and Indian waters, this is not the tip of Africa. Still, it is perhaps the climax of our tour.
Referencing the 1859 lighthouse on Vasco da Gama Peak, you will be standing on a summit 238 meters above sea level at the site where an incredible light strength of 19 million candlepower blasts across beautiful False Bay.
It is as though the land knows of its own beauty, its own greatness, and feels no need to shout it
Kazuo Ishiguro, Author.
Though I love that the oceans embrace this place positioned so high above the world and far away from our worries, they meet at Cape Agulhas.
So, for the sake of romance, whilst the wild currents that drive the oceans of the most magnificent Cape bear witness, and perhaps with a curious seagull watching too, we will take our curtsy here.
There certainly is something about the shape of the Cape waters that stir the soul.
Make it your home.
Live Life Beautifully.
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Photo credits: Charles Johnstone, Oscar Orpen, Henrique Wilding, Airreal Views, Cape Town Cocker, Dog on a Rock, Paul White house, Cape Town Etc and The Marly, Beach Bums
